When bringing home a new puppy or adopting a new adult golden, it is important that you know the information behind feeding a Golden Retriever. Feeding a large breed dog (like a Golden) can be a bit more confusing than feeding a small breed dog due to the dietary requirements of a large breed. With all of the options available on the market, figuring out what to feed your Golden can be difficult. In many of the Facebook groups I am a member of, there are many armchair veterinarians that will spout their experiences as fact. Truly, there is no science behind their ideas, they have just read it somewhere else and associated it with there dog. This makes your decision that much harder. This article explains FACTS about dogs foods and also gives you some insight on what we recommend. I am not saying that I am an expert. Nonetheless, through research and experience, these are my recommendations.
SO MUCH Information
There is a great deal of information available today when it comes to canine nutrition. On top of all the information you find on the internet, you have the opinion of those in the large pet food stores, the ads on television, and what your best friend feeds their pets. Really, when it comes down to it, you have to figure out what you are the most comfortable with when feeding your four-legged family member. Feeding Golden Retrievers is something that I continually research as it is important for me to make sure our dogs get everything they need in their diets.
Most owners want to do what is best for their puppy/dog. The following information is to help you make a decision concerning what to feed your four-legged family member. Over the years, I have had tremendous success with my feeding plan(s). Whether I am feeding a Pomeranian, a Heeler, a Golden Retriever, a Dachshund, a Great Dane, or any other breed, I have always done my research. Always know that the information I provide comes from my experience, extensive research, and collaboration with my vet.
When researching the multiple different philosophies associated with feeding a large breed dog, advice concerning calcium content, protein content, fat content, kcals, and more, can all be found. Now, with the new studies concerning DCM and grain-free foods, it has become even more intimidating.
I have written a complete article concerning the DCM and Diet argument. It is the scientific and proven view of the issue. A short synopsis is that those foods containing lentils and/or peas in the first six ingredients should be avoided. All of the grain-free diets fall in this category. It is an informative read if you are really trying to figure out what is best when feeding your Golden. Additionally, I have created a “Safe” foods list that is also available on this website.
Different Dietary Options
Grain-Free Diets
Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending how you look at it), this is a topic I am extremely passionate about. When grain-free dog foods first hit the market, it was not an option found in almost any brand available. The grain-free diets started to show up around 2008. However, they did not become incredibly popular until around 2012. In the last five years, it seems that every dog food company has jumped on the band wagon and created their own version of a grain-free food. I am convinced that these foods were first produced to help our canine companions. It was probably a food that was created to help those dogs that have severe allergies to corn, wheat, and in severe cases, rice. However, over the years, it has spiraled out of control.
There is a multifaceted reason as to why this happened. First, the internet…with all of this information at our fingertips, we research topics more than we did when we had to go to the library to do so. Second, there are more dog owners out there consider their dog part of the family. Third, if a company sees that another company highly profiting off of a product, they are going to create their own.
Not the answer for most…
As stated before, there is a reason for grain-free dogs foods. However, there are other veterinary diets (made by Royal Canin, Purina, Science Diet) that can help with dogs with extensive allergies. Nonetheless, grain-free is NOT the best answer for most dogs. With the issues with DCM and Golden Retrievers, grain-free is not the answer for this breed – EVER. Due to advertising propaganda, dog food companies have made owners believe that dogs do not need/eat grains. They have made owners believe that the best way to feed a dog is like it is a human in dog food form. This is not the case in either instance. Even wild dogs eat grains.
The ingestion of grains help with proper digestion, gastrointestinal health, and are a good source of carbohydrates. If you want to feed your dog like it is a human, more power to you. However, you need to feed your dog properly prepared “human” food to do so. Would you open a bag of dog food and start eating the kernels like potato chips? If not, then grain-free dog food is not truly human-grade food.
The RAW/BARF Diet
Again, this is a trend that was started by some veterinarian in Australia who said that feeding domesticated dogs to mimic that of a wild dog’s diet would be a good step for our pets. However, MANY other veterinarians STRONGLY disagree with this man. In addition, not only to other veterinarians not agree, the FDA does not agree. According to the propaganda, the benefits of this diet are healthier skin and teeth, shiny coats, and additional energy. Each of these benefits can be found through the addition of a once-daily omega oil capsule and adding nzymes™ and/or a multivitamin to a dog’s diet.
Negative Aspects of the BARF Diet
– threats to the health of both dog and their human due to bacteria in the food
– an unbalanced diet for the dog that can lead to additional health issues
– gastrointestinal complications
Traditional Commercial Dog Foods
Believe it or not, this is the best bet for your dog’s diet. When feeding your Golden, unless you want to cook for your dog every day, this is the avenue you should choose. Dogs, although once considered just a companion animal, have become an integral part of the family for many people. Many people care about what they feed their dog as much as they care about what they feed themselves (if not more…lol). As a result, new dog food companies are coming out of the woodwork. There is a reason that the most reputable companies have been around for decades. In all reality, the rule of thought is, “if it is not broke, don’t fix it.”
There is a reason many of these companies have been in business for a minimum of fifty years. Yes, some, if not most of these companies have had a recall in their past. However, there are some newer companies that have already had recalls, in addition to MANY other issues.
How to Choose a Food
Myth 1: The more it costs, the better the food.
First and foremost, I need to bring up the idea that the more a dog food costs, the better it is. In no way is this the case. Take Blue Buffalo, Acadia, Fromm, Canidae, or Blue Wilderness for example. These foods are all on the FDA list for foods that have been linked to Diet-Associated DCM. Some have even had class-action lawsuits drawn against them for pet deaths.
However, all of these foods cost approximately $2.00 to $4.00 a pound. In truth, you are paying for all of their propaganda advertising. You are NOT paying for a quality product.
This argument is strengthened when you look at the fact that you can find foods from much more established companies (like Purina or Bil-Jac) who sell their premium foods at approximately $1.75 – $2.50 a pound. Companies like Victor, that have some well blended and balanced foods come out to $1.85 a pound. Even with Eagle Pack, which is great food with a relatively low advertising presence, their foods do not go above $2 a pound.
It should be completely evident that the COST of some dog foods is not always associated with its quality. Later in the article, we will come back to the dog food discussion concerning sensitive stomachs. However, since it is the most complex, we will save this for last. Let us first discuss treats.
Myth 2: The newer companies are more “up-to-date” on what dogs need.
Choose a WELL -ESTABLISHED company – This means you need to purchase dog food from a major manufacturer. These include Purina, Iams, Diamond, Eukanuba, Eagle Pack, Royal Canin, and Science Diet. Stay away from the fad companies like Blue Buffalo, Rachel Ray, Blue Wilderness, Taste of the Wild, Fromm, Acana, or Orijen as these have all been linked to Diet Related DCM.
Myth 3: Dogs do not need Grains
Grain Free is NOT the Key – If the food you are looking at is Grain-Free, look at something else. Grain-free diets do not benefit dogs in any way. If your dog has a grain allergy, find a food with a different grain (rice) or a veterinary diet. Stay away from diets that have peas, potatoes, and lentils in the first ten to twelve ingredients.
Myth 4: All By-Products and Meals are Bad
Look at the Ingredients – When you are purchasing your puppy/dog’s food, you want to look at the actual ingredients. It is best for your pet if the main ingredient is actual meat or a specific meat meal. Meat meal is not actually bad for dogs, it has its benefits…as long as it is actual meat and not a generic term.
There will often be a meat by-product of some sort in the food. This is normal and used for fat/protein content. For the by-product to be the second or third ingredient is relatively common.
Myth 5: The ingredients matter more than the levels
– calcium levels to be between 0.9% and 1.2%.
– protein levels to be between 23% and 28% for adults and 26% and 34% for puppies
– fat levels to be between 12% and 20% – Yes, this is a HUGE gap. It depends on the exercise level and stomach sensitivity of your dog. If he/she runs for hours every day, they will need more fat then the dog that stays in a crate for 8 hours a day.
– Joint supplements are beneficial
Myth 6: Fruits and Veggies make the foods more “complete”
There are many fruits and vegetables that are great for dogs. However, as seen in the DCM research, there is an issue of “too much of a good thing.” If there are some ingredients in your dog food that you are not sure are actually beneficial – LOOK THEM UP. In most cases, dogs do not need fruits and veggies. In other cases, there are fruits and veggies that dogs should not have. The common no-no’s are peas, lentils, potatoes, grapes, and onions. Nonetheless, these ingredients would need to be one of the top ten ingredients on the list to actually make a significant difference in the diet. Additionally, the truth is your dog is not a human and will still have a complete diet if they do not have portions of fruit or veggies in their dog food. If you want to give some watermelon, green beans, or carrots as a treat, there is nothing wrong with that.
Our Suggestions for Feeding Golden Retrievers:
In reality, the best choice for your dog is not ONE dog food. The best choice is two to three dog foods. This is beneficial for a number of reasons.
1. It gives your dog variety.
2. Not all dog foods are the same. Some have more of one ingredient and not enough of the other. Other brands have higher acidity levels. Some foods have higher carbs.
3. No dogs food has it ALL. If mixed, there is a higher chance that your dog gets everything he/she needs.
4. Better for your dogs digestive system. If the body has to process different foods, there is less of a chance that your dog will get colitis or pancreatitis.
5. Cost – let’s face it, sometimes people get in a jam and paying $60.00+ for a 35 lb bag of dog food seems taxing. In cases like this, instead of mixing two of the more expensive “premium” foods, you can mix one expensive food and one less expensive food (as long as you follow Rule 1 above). This way the food lasts longer and you spent a little less. Once that has all been fed, you may be able to go back to the two “premium” foods.
6. Add Nzyme Granules and Probiotic
I have fed this way for over twenty years and I have never had an issue with any of my dogs. They have always been healthy and happy. To do this you should choose two foods and mix them together 1:1. When this mixture is finished, purchase one bag of the same food you just finished and one bag of a new kind of food. The easiest way to do this is to pick three or four foods you like the most and rotate between them.
How/When to Feed
If your puppy comes from here, as your puppy grows he/she is free-fed. This means that the puppy has access to food 24/7. This should continue once your puppy is brought into your home. Puppies and dogs should not be fed on a schedule. When feeding your Golden, you should allow them to eat when they are hungry.
Dogs have the memory of a two-year-old. They get the basic commands, but there is no room in there to process where their next meal is coming from. This is why dogs INHALE their food like a vacuum cleaner when they are fed on a schedule. The dog is actually worried that the food will go away. By the time you have set for the dog to be hungry, it could have already become hungry and been waiting for hours.
Over-eating…
Feeding on a schedule can actually cause your dog to WANT to overeat. This means, that if your dog ever gets the opportunity to get into the dog food bag, it will devour as much of the food as its little stomach can handle. Then, it will turn around and vomit on your floor or you will be rushing him/her to the vet due to a bad case of colitis or pancreatitis.
With dogs that have access to food 24/7, this is rarely the case. If I open a bag of dog food and walk away, my dogs may take a bite or two and then just ignore it. Why? They know that the food will always be there if they are hungry.
Some may argue that free-feeding cause a dog to get fat. This is not the case. If the dog knows the food will be there, it will eat when it is hungry. This allows the dog to “graze” which helps with the digestion.
If your dog seems to be gaining weight after being spayed/neutered, change to a light/diet food and up the exercise. The answer is not to start scheduling when your dog should be hungry.
Feeding Golden Retriever Puppies
When you are feeding your Golden puppy, you need to leave food out 24/7. The only time your pup should not have access to food is over night while you are potty training. All of our pups have had continuous access to food since they could eat on their own. If you try to put your pup on a schedule, this will take time and will be a difficult transition into your home. If you feel it is absolutely necessary to feed your puppy on a schedule, they need to eat 4 – 6 times a day until the age of 16 weeks.
Feeding Adult Golden Retrievers
When feeding an adult Golden, your main consideration is how much exercise your dog gets on a daily basis. This does not mean that you limit the amount of food available. You will still leave food out your 24/7. If your dog is gaining too much weight, you will change the food, not the method of feeding. For a normal/active adult, you can change foods or stick to the same brand(s) that you used for puppy food, just change to the adult, large breed recipe. If your dog looks to be getting fat, choose a food with lower fat content. If you cannot find an adult food with a lower fat content, then you can move to a “light” or “weight control” diet.
Sensitive Stomachs
Some dogs have naturally sensitive stomachs. There are also foods and supplements that can help dogs with this issue. Please check out our sensitive stomachs page.
Feeding Your Senior Golden
The only change that needs to be made once your dog is 7 to 10 years old is the recipe that the dog is fed. If you have not already started your dog on joint supplements, now is the time to do so. In addition, you will change your dog over to a senior diet. According to veterinary medicine, after the age of seven, your dog is a senior. However, not all dogs that are seven need a senior diet and would actually do better if they stay on their adult diet. Nonetheless, by nine, your dog should be switched over to a senior food. Most, if not all, of the foods I have recommended above have a senior diet available.
Treats
For treats, I recommend giving your dog low sodium, canned green beans or carrots. Each of these treats will store well in Tupperware containers, they are easy to handle when used for training, they are low in fat, and great for your dog. Now, even though these are healthy treats there is no reason to go overboard.
If you are someone who just likes giving your baby treats, then consider offering a small kernel kibble one at a time fed by hand. To many dogs, anything that comes from your hand is better than what is in the bowl. Still, I completely understand if you like to pamper your pup. Below is feedback on the best options for your pup/dog when it comes to treats that can be purchased at the store. Please use reason when giving your dog treats.
It has now been shown that many different bones and rawhide are not beneficial for a dog’s digestive tract. This actually includes many of those dental chews that turn gooey when they are chewed. If you want to use a “chew” when giving treats, we recommend using one of the following:
The Truth…
I have laid out my beliefs and experiences when it comes to feeding your Golden. However, I support you if you feel like you would like to do your own research. Nonetheless, please do not feed a specific dog food just because your best friend feeds it or because it is the most expensive food you could find. Please remember:
— If you are going to research, do A LOT of research. Do not go to a site that “scores” dog foods or states which dog foods are the best.
— Just because a dog food costs more, does not mean it is better.
— What is best for humans is not necessarily what is best for dogs.
— Do not believe the advertisements you see on TV. They are there to sell you something, not teach you.
— Stick with the companies that truly know what they are doing. If they have not been in business for at least 30 years, stay away from them.
— Last, but not least, please do not forget that I am always here if you would like to talk about anything concerning one of our pups. I am here to support you when you have questions.
Some additional articles that you may find beneficial are DCM and Diet, Safe Foods, Supplements, and Sensitive Stomachs.
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About the Author
I have been working with animals for as long as I can remember. Throughout my teens, undergrad, and graduate school, I worked as a veterinary technician. From 2007 – 2011, I owned and ran a registered dog rescue where we worked with the dogs that needed rehabilitation before placement in a forever home. In addition, I have been breeding dogs since 1998. Through all of this, I have consistently researched to keep myself apprised of the latest information concerning canine health and care. As a college professor, I feel knowledge is beneficial and I try to share it when I can. I put my heart and soul into my small breeding program. God, my family, my pups, and my extended fur-family are what brings me happiness.